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6mm diameter round rose-cut mother-of-pearl cabochon. Mother-of-pearl is the organic material produced by mollusks as a protective inner layer of their shells — it is not a mineral but a biogenic material with a unique laminated structure that generates the characteristic iridescent effect.
Piece Details
| Material |
Mother-of-pearl — biogenic organic material, not mineral |
| Dimensions |
6 mm diameter · ±0.5 mm due to artisanal cutting |
| Shape and Back |
Round, rose-cut (domed facets), flat back |
| Finish |
Lapidary polished with rose facets |
| Hardness |
2.5-4.5 Mohs — delicate material; we recommend a closed bezel setting or chaton with side protection |
| Origin |
Material acquired from a wholesale lapidary market |
| Treatment |
No treatment |
| Piece Type |
Available in various formats by lot |
This specific piece
Rose-cut mother-of-pearl is an unusual format that transforms a classic material into something more contemporary. The dome facets fragment the nacreous iridescence — which in a polished cabochon appears as a continuous veil — into punctual flashes that change with movement. The result is a more dynamic effect than that of a smooth cabochon, without losing the characteristic organic warmth of mother-of-pearl.
How mother-of-pearl iridescence forms
Mother-of-pearl is the inner layer of the shells of bivalve mollusks of the genus Pinctada and others. It is formed by alternating layers of aragonite (a polymorph of calcium carbonate) and an organic protein called conchiolin. These layers are about 0.5 micrometers thick — comparable to the wavelength of visible light — which causes them to interfere with light and produce the iridescent effect (called "nacreous play of color" or orient in gemology). The same physical principle as labradorite, but in a material of biological origin.
For which setting it works
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Sterling silver stud earrings — the 6mm rose-cut format is perfect.
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Small hoop earrings and stacking rings — the iridescent white of mother-of-pearl is neutral and pairs with.
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Wire wrap in fine gauges — mother-of-pearl is soft (2.5-4.5 Mohs) and should be handled with.
Mother-of-pearl in artisanal tradition
The use of mother-of-pearl in jewelry and ornamentation has more than 6,000 years of documented history. In Polynesia, mother-of-pearl — called Te Ufi— was considered a veil between the physical and spiritual worlds, and was used in ceremonial masks and ritual fishing hooks. 16th-century Venetian artisans inlaid it into furniture and frames using the certosino technique. In the 19th century, the button industry in Sheffield (England) transformed mother-of-pearl into a mass-consumer material; the arrival of plastic in the 20th century relegated it to designer jewelry and quality craftsmanship, where it remains highly prized.
How to recognize genuine mother-of-pearl
Authentic mother-of-pearl has an iridescence that changes with the viewing angle: colors move across the surface. Imitations made of plastic or resin have a fixed and uniform color. When genuine mother-of-pearl is rubbed against the teeth, it produces a gritty or rough sensation — due to the aragonite layers — plastic is completely smooth. The low hardness of mother-of-pearl (2.5-4.5 Mohs) makes it easily scratchable with a coin, unlike most stones. In rose cut, the facets of authentic mother-of-pearl show the iridescent play on each individual facet; in imitations, the effect is flat.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is it a mineral or an organic material?
It is a biogenic organic material produced by mollusks. It is not a mineral in the strict sense of the term (minerals are inorganic and of geological origin).
Is it color treated?
No treatment. The iridescent white color is the natural color of Pinctada mother-of-pearl. There is no staining or any type of color enhancement.
Which metals does it combine best with?
It combines very well with 925 silver (the classic combination), with white gold, and with gold-plated silver (vermeil).